This month in the new Amuser magazine:

dummies.jpg

Photo: Luigi Di Donna

Models: Lisa Hübner & Darya Del @Mademoiselle

Fashion: Mina Njah

Hair: Henri Olivier Nicolas

Makeup: Sophie Richardoz

I’ve had a new story published, in French magazine Cuir Plus.
cuirplus.jpg

Photo: Frederic Germond

Models: Coralie Joos@Crystal, Welyka@Mademoiselle

Makeup: Sophie Richardoz pour Yabycosmetics.com

Hair: Dany L.

Wardrobe styling: Emma Brajkovic

A model asked me once how she could know whether a makeup artist was careful with hygiene or not. For most makeup artists, it is obvious, but I think that a summary of the way to go could be useful to models, photographers and even you, who go to makeup counters to do your makeup with testers! Yeah, I’ve been watching you!

 In my opinion, a good makeup artist is a makeup artist with good ethics. To respect the others starts with good hygiene.

 The main idea is to keep your germs to yourself and to prevent any to come close to your products, so your model won’t catch anything you might carry. Picture a guy selling sandwiches, who washes his hands, puts gloves on and then coughs on them.  Yum! See my point?

 OK, first, to know if a makeup artist is clean, ask him how he cleans his kit.

 Then, watch him work. I’m going to go through the basics. If your makeup artist skips any of these steps, run. Or suggest he uses your own makeup. For basic hygiene, a makeup artist must:

 - wash his hands first (with soap and water, or an antibacterial gel)

 - same thing each time he is in contact with his own germs (to spare the model, thanks) : when sneezing, touching his hair, picking his nose, whatever, you get my drift…

 - same thing again before touching his makeup. It is mandatory not to put germs in the products he’s going to re-use (if I touch the model’s skin, I sanitize my hands before putting them into my foundation)

 - sanitize his tools (palette, eyelash curler, spatula…) with 90° alcohol before use

 - use disposables, staple being the disposable mascara wand. Unless you plan on giving the mascara tube to the model after the job, never use the wand inside the tube. Use a disposable wand that you dip one time only in the tube. If you have to, use one for each eye, but never double dip!

 - clean brushes between models! (if you have lots of mouths to put lipstick on, on a runway show for instance, think of disposables or bring lots of brushes but never ever use the same brush from a model to another to another)

 It might seem like a chore, but these are only habits to get used to, then you’re used to it and it comes naturally. It is expensive. But it is mandatory.

 The actual risks:

Lots of us think pink eye is no big deal (and won’t think twice before using beauty counter testers) And pink eye is not lethal. So, about the actual risks of overlooking hygiene: yes, pink eye is what you’re most likely to catch from a dirty makeup artist.

But don’t forget cold sore (super contagious), also called herpes virus. Herpes can also be caught in the eye. It is lots less fun, because you can lose your eyesight (and again, it is super contagious).

 Chalazion is relatively benign. But it has 2 drawbacks: like herpes, it is recurring (when one is stressed, tired). And it is very ugly. A model who comes up to a casting with chalazion has basically one eye so swollen she can’t open it, and dripping with pus. No big chance to get the job, what do you think? You can get rid of chalazion. With surgery.

 My point is that you’re, as a makeup artist, getting into the intimate space of the model, more that any other person “on set”. It can be a big deal going to work with a cold. Ok, I often got it from another model the previous week, but I have no reason to punish the next model. I’ve used the same paper masks the Japanese use in public places when they’re sick. Always got some in my kit (you can buy them at the pharmacy).

 In France, we’re a bit behind as far as hygiene is concerned. You can tell when you see the price of disposables over here. Fortunately, you can get some at a fair price online: on Camera Ready Cosmetics you’ll find mascara wands, gloss applicators and sponge.

 And, um, don’t forget to shower, use deodorant and mints before a job.

I’m happy to be able to show you this new fashion spread I am really proud of! It was just published in A Magazine Milano:

amag.jpg

Photo: Luigi Di Donna

Model: Iryna

Hair: Olivier

Wardrobe: Stéphanie Ladroue for Georges Chakra Haute Couture

Makeup: me! :)

Shot at the Murano Resort in Paris. Browse my fashion galerie to see more!

New fashion serie from last week with gorgeous Brazilian model Julianna Martins from Next.

jul.jpg

Photographer: Joel Dart

Wardrobe: Mikael Democles

Makeup and hair: Sophie Richardoz

fam.jpg

Beauty test with Lauren@Fam

Photos: Mathieu Richardoz

Sometimes I still don’t get any notification from Wordpress when I receive a comment here. So I can be slow at moderation, sorry!

sick.jpg

New additions in my book: some fresh men’s fashion.

johan.jpg

Photographer: Joel Dart

Model: Johan

Yesterday I spend a nice day shooting a menswear catalog with photographer Sandrine Mercier.

We met at 10 with Xavier, model, for a cup of coffee before action. An invisible makeup, a great mood and we did outfit after outfit after outfit.

23-05-08_1607_resize.jpg

23-05-08_1837_resize.jpg

I have an ethical question tho: would it be ok to add without noone noticing a couple of pairs of boxer shorts in the clothes racks and pretend to have to shoot them so you can watch the model half naked? Photographer and I haven’t settled on the matter yet.

PS : yes, I am considering buying a decent camera so I wouldn’t have to put cellphone photos on here anymore. But for now, I’d be thankful if you did like I do, suffer in silence.

A fresh spring serie?

Model: Betty

Photo: Mathieu Richardoz

betty.jpg

I tested a few products then (and some I had forgotten). That’s also what tests are for, right?

I just bought the corrector palette from Yaby and I love it! The correctors have a super pigmented texture, they are creamy but not greasy, and they won’t budge or show. You can use it under the eyes as well as on blemishes. I ordered 4 pink-based and 6 yellow-based and the green and the pink correctors (which is a fab blush too!)

I also got to try the new Make Up For Ever HD line. The foundation is invisible, semi matte and nicely workable. I am rather a cream foundation user, I had to rethink some ways of working and mostly re-working my makeup, but it is perfect for the artists out there working HD. Just as the powder that the models love for its softness. It absorbs shine but stays invisible. Pigmentless (just like the ones from Camera Ready, Yaby or Ben & Nye), it suits any skin tone. It is rather expensive tho, so if you don’t work with HD, you might favor the colorless powders I mentioned before.

I also rediscovered Benefit’s Moon Beam de Benefit. Its shiny effect is very particular. I didn’t like its tendency to dry a little too quickly (again, I’m more of a cream girl) but I must admit I am very happy of the result. I might give it another chance.

What about you? Any makeup discoveries?